Frigidaire Gallery, Professional and standard side-by-side, top-mount and French-door fridges — we know the auger motor failures, PureSource filter issues and every quirk of SpaceWise and CoolZone drawers.

• Ice maker auger motor stopped turning

  Classic Frigidaire fault. The auger that pushes ice into the dispenser chute burns out from constant use. You hear a click when you press the dispenser, but no ice comes out.

• Water filter slow or won't dispense

  PureSource Ultra II / III filter is clogged past its 6-month rating, or the water inlet valve solenoid has failed. Sometimes the post-filter water line has frozen inside the door.

• Freezer cold but fridge stays warm

  Failed evaporator fan motor or a stuck air damper between compartments. Cold air can no longer move from the freezer up into the fridge section.

• Ice and frost building on the back wall

  Defrost timer, defrost thermostat, or defrost heater has failed. The fridge can't melt frost between cooling cycles, so it grows on the evaporator and blocks airflow.

• SY EF or SY CE error on the display

  SY EF means the evaporator fan motor failed to start. SY CE points to a condenser fan or temperature sensor fault. Both usually need parts replaced by a tech.

Frigidaire front-loaders, top-loaders, Affinity series and matched dryers — we fix motor control boards, suspension rods, drain pumps and the heating elements on every dryer model.

• Washer won't spin or drum vibrates loudly

  Worn suspension rods can't dampen the drum anymore, or the spider arm behind the drum has corroded. The drum slams the cabinet at every spin and may stop spinning entirely.

• E20 or drain error code

  Drain pump impeller jammed by a coin, lint or hair clog. E20 specifically means the washer couldn't lower the water level within the time window the cycle allowed.

• Washer won't start, lights flickering

  Failed Motor Control Board — one of the most common Frigidaire front-loader faults. The board behind the right side panel needs to be replaced with a new MCB.

• Dryer runs but won't heat up

  Blown thermal fuse from a clogged exhaust vent, or a burned-out heating element coil. Gas dryers usually need a new igniter that no longer glows hot enough to light the burner.

• E68 or E64 code on the dryer

  E68 means a stuck button on the control panel keypad. E64 means the heating element has an open circuit somewhere and isn't drawing the current it should be.

Frigidaire Gallery and Professional dishwashers with OrbitClean and EvenDry — we handle drain pumps, heating elements, control boards and the moisture-damaged display panels.

• iE or i20 error code, won't drain

  Drain pump motor failed, hose plugged with food waste, or the check valve at the pump outlet stuck shut. iE is also triggered by a kinked drain hose behind the unit.

• Dishes still wet at the end of cycle

  Burned-out heating element under the tub, or the EvenDry vent fan failed. Without heat during the final rinse, dishes stay damp no matter which dry setting you pick.

• OrbitClean spray arm won't spin

  Food debris locked the spray arm bearing, or the chopper blade in the sump is dull and pushes food pulp into the spray arm jets, blocking it from rotating.

• Control panel buttons not responding

  Moisture got behind the membrane control panel and shorted the contacts. Common after the door gasket wears out and steam leaks upward to the touch controls.

• Dishwasher leaking from under the door

  Worn door gasket, cracked sump seal, or oversudsing from too much detergent. Sometimes the float switch sticks open and the tub keeps overfilling past the door line.

Frigidaire Gallery, Professional and standard gas, electric and induction ranges — we fix oven igniters, bake elements, surface burner switches and the famous F10 temperature errors.

• Oven won't heat at all

  Burned-out bake element on electric ovens. On gas models, the igniter has weakened — it still glows orange but no longer draws enough current to open the safety valve.

• F10 or F11 error on the display

  F10 means the oven sensor is reporting a runaway temperature — usually a shorted sensor or a stuck relay on the EOC control board. F11 means a shorted touch keypad.

• Surface element won't turn off

  Stuck infinite switch on the affected burner. The contacts inside the switch welded together from years of arcing, so power keeps flowing even when the knob is at 'off'.

• Gas burner clicks constantly

  Wet spark module, cracked igniter electrode, or a stuck ignition switch. The spark module keeps firing after the burner is already lit, or won't stop when the knob is off.

• Self-clean cycle won't unlock the door

  Door latch motor burned out from the high-heat cycle and seized. The oven cooled down hours ago, but the latch won't release without replacing the whole motor assembly.