We fix every GE fridge and freezer — French-door, side-by-side, bottom-freezer and built-in Profile or Café models. Ice makers, water valves, control boards and evaporator fans are always on the van.

• Ice maker stopped making ice

  The most common GE fridge fault. Usually a stuck water inlet valve, a frozen fill tube, or a worn-out ice maker module that needs replacing.

• Water dispenser drips or won't pour

  Cracked water line behind the fridge, failed dispenser actuator, or a frozen line in the freezer door pushing water back through the system.

• Freezer cold but fridge stays warm

  The evaporator fan motor or the damper between compartments has failed. Cold air can't move from the freezer up into the fridge section.

• Loud humming or rattling from the back

  Worn compressor mounts or a failing evaporator fan motor. Sometimes ice has built up around the fan blades after a missed defrost cycle.

• Frost building up in the freezer

  Bad defrost heater, defrost thermostat, or defrost timer. The fridge can't melt frost between cycles, so it grows on the back wall and vents.

GE top-loaders, front-loaders and matched dryers — we know HydroWave motors, lid lock switches, drain pumps and every quirk of Profile and Café laundry pairs.

• Washer won't drain at end of cycle

  Drain pump impeller jammed by a coin or sock, or the drain hose kinked behind the unit. Sometimes the drain pump motor itself burns out and needs replacing.

• Lid lock won't release (top-loaders)

  GE top-loaders won't start or finish with a faulty lid lock. The switch wears out from daily use or the wax motor inside stops moving the latch.

• Washer fills slowly or not at all

  Failed water inlet valve, clogged inlet screens at the back of the washer, or a kinked supply hose. Low household water pressure can also trigger this.

• Dryer runs but won't heat

  Burned heating element on electric dryers, or a blown thermal fuse from a clogged vent. Gas dryers usually need a new igniter that no longer glows hot enough.

• Dryer needs two cycles to dry a load

  Clogged lint trap, blocked dryer vent hose, or a failing thermistor reading the wrong temperature and shutting heat off too early.

GE Profile, GE Café and standard built-in dishwashers — we handle drain pumps, wash motors, control boards and Bottle Jet manifold issues across every generation.

• Dishes still dirty after a full wash

  Clogged spray arm holes, a weak wash motor, or a torn pump seal. The water can't reach the dishes with enough pressure to clean them properly.

• Water sitting at the bottom after cycle

  Drain pump motor failed, drain hose clogged with food debris, or the food chopper blade is dull and packs the pump intake with waste.

• Dishwasher won't start at all

  Faulty door latch switch, blown thermal fuse on the control board, or a tripped overload on the wash motor from a previous jam.

• Leaking from under the door seal

  Worn door gasket, cracked spray arm seal, or too much detergent causing suds that push water past the door during the cycle.

• Long cycles or stuck mid-cycle

  Failed thermistor reading the wrong water temperature, or a bad heating element that can never reach the target temp the cycle is waiting for.

GE Profile, GE Café and standard gas and electric ranges — we fix bake elements, igniters, induction power modules and Power Boil burners across slide-in and freestanding models.

• Oven won't heat at all

  Burned-out bake or broil element on electric ovens. Gas ovens usually need a new igniter that no longer draws enough current to open the gas valve.

• Gas burner clicks but won't light

  Wet or cracked spark electrode, dirty burner cap blocking the spark gap, or a clogged burner orifice. The spark fires but no flame catches.

• Oven runs too hot or too cold

  Failed oven temperature sensor reporting wrong values to the control board. The oven keeps heating past the setpoint or shuts off too early.

• F-code error on the display

  Common GE codes: F1 (control board fault), F2 (oven over-temp), F3 (open sensor), F9 (door lock motor). Usually a sensor or control board swap.

• Self-clean cycle locked the door shut

  Door latch motor burns out from the high-heat cycle and gets stuck. The oven cools down completely but won't unlock until the latch motor is replaced.